This is the best all-round book for complete beginners.

Pros:

• provides simple explanations of each step of the fibre preparation and dye process

• provides some historical context

• written for a general audience & explains common dye terminology

• lots of examples of plants found in the UK that can be used, with text & pictures for process & results

Cons:

• the key that explains what the pictorial symbols mean for each dye result is difficult to find (once you do, I suggest you bookmark that page so you can find it easily next time)

• includes a lot of non-dyes/highly fugitive colourants (Jenny has a blog post explaining why they were included, against her wishes); while there is mention in some plant entries to them not being reliable dyes, it is easy for a reader to miss those references

A solid introduction to a decent range of natural dye methods (dye baths, dye vats, print pastes, and more).

Pros

• written by a textile chemist (Joy Boutrup), with methods demonstrated by a textile artist (Catharine Ellis)

• very clearly written instructions for a non-specialist/general public audience

• low ecological impact lens

• lays flat when open due to a coil binding

Cons

• does not cover sources of natural dyes (other than the few used to demonstrate the methods) - this isn’t really a con (as it wasn’t the intent of the book), just something to be aware of

The most comprehensive, scholarly work on natural dye history and sources (and some chemistry).

Pros

• the author is a renowned scholar of global natural dye history

• covers the history & sources of natural dyes across the globe

• organized by chief dye compound/colour

Cons

• prohibitively expensive for many (but maybe you can find it in your local library, or through inter-library loan)

• not a how-to manual, though there is some content related to common dye methods - this isn’t really a con (as it wasn’t the intent of the book), just something to be aware of

The most comprehensive, scholarly work on natural dye chemistry.

Pros

• written & edited by chemists

• comprehensive explanation of the chemistry of natural dye materials and methods (written for those with an advanced education in chemistry)

• covers some history & methods

Cons

• prohibitively expensive for many (but maybe you can find it in through a local university library)

• not accessible to the general public, as it is written predominantly for an academic/scientific audience, so the terminology and descriptions of chemical processes are well beyond the understanding of many natural dyers - this isn’t really a con (as it wasn’t the intent of the book), just something to be aware of

Gorgeous, comprehensive ethnobotanical collection of the dye materials and methods of India’s regions.

Pros

• written & edited by chemists

• some explanation of the chemistry of natural dye materials and methods

• comprehensive history, materials (mordants, plants, insects, etc.), and detailed methods used in different regions of India

• images of many of the truly stunning natural dye traditions of India

Cons

• difficult to find (mine was gifted to me by a wonderful student in India), but you can try HERE

Wonderful collection of historic dye methods recreated for the modern dyer.

Pros

• extensive collection of step by step historic dye methods (scouring, mordanting, and dyeing) brought into 20th/21st century language

• explanation of large range of historic dye materials and, in many instances, more readily available modern equivalents/substitutes

• organized by colour family, making it easy to assess a wide range of methods to achieve any given colour

• written for a non-specialist/general public audience

Cons

• very few images of results; there are some, but far fewer than most contemporary dyers now expect in a natural dye book

• does not focus on low impact/ecological considerations

Collection of some historic dye & lake pigment methods recreated for the modern dyer.

Pros

• written by academic scholars with deep expertise in natural pigments and dyes, particularly the history and practice of traditional visual art materials made from natural substances

• excellent comparisons (written and photographic) of how adjustments in one or more variables in a method impacts final colour results

• written for a non-specialist/general public audience, but with some chemistry for those with some formal education in this field

Cons

• focuses mostly on yellow and red dyes, so may be limiting for some readers

The best all-round book on all things indigo.

Pros

• covers everything from cultivation of indigo, through to harvesting, storage, many different vatting techniques (ncluding sukumo), and multiple methods of using indigo in whole cloth dyeing, a range of stunning surface design techniques, and painting

• the author, John Marshall, spent many years studying traditional indigo methods in Japan (also learning Japanese) with many different dye masters

• Clear step by step instructions, accompanied by photos, on all techniques included in the book

Cons

• mostly specific to Japanese indigo dye history and methods, so those looking for details of indigo traditions from the Americas, Africa, or elsewhere, will not find it in this book - this isn’t really a con (as it wasn’t the intent of the book), just something to be aware of