A dye liquor from which three dye solutions can come. Bruise and mix with water, 2/3 of a part of Krimnos and 1 part of dyer’s alum. Put the wool in and it becomes scarlet red. If it is to be leek green, add ground sulphur with water. If, however, it is to be quince yellow, then add unadulterated natron along with water.

introduction:

Krimnos is said to give a red/crimson dye according to Ciba 9, but it has long since become extinct. Kermes was available in the Mediterranean during this time but has since become very expensive and difficult to get hold of, I have decided to use Cochineal. The cochineal will give the same colour but in a greater concentration. The sulphur I have managed to get from a UK chemical supplier with all the relevant health warnings (do not breathe in, do not ingest, and do not get in your eyes etc.).  I have managed to track down a recipe for the natron, this is made from equal parts of sea salt, soda ash and baking powder.  The cochineal powder (2tsp 10g) was added to the dye pan and slowly heated to a simmer 80°C. The well wetted and mordanted (aluminium potassium sulphate) protein fibres were added, along with the cellulose fibres which had been mordanted and tannin (aluminium and oak gall). The pan was brought back to temperature and kept at this for one hour. The dye pan was then allowed to cool and rest overnight. The dyed fibres were then removed and washed in warm water. Four of the wools were then placed into the modifier pots, one each of ammonia, citric acid, copper, and iron. The samples were left in these pots for ten minutes, then rinsed in warm water. Spun and allowed to dry. Another container was used for the sulphur experiment. The sulphur powder (10g) was placed into this container with a small amount of water and mixed (the sulphur was repelling the water), more water and the wool skein was added. This was left for 2 hours then removed and allowed to air dry. For the natron equal parts of sea salt and baking powder were placed into a mortar and pestle and ground down to a fine powder, this then had hot water added and the powder was allowed to dissolve. Into this mixture I added another skein of wool, and this was also left for an hour. Then it was removed and allowed to air dry.

stackholm 118: To Produce a Gold Color by Cold Dyeing

Take safflower blossom and oxeye, crush them together and lay them in water. Put the wool in and sprinkle with water. Lift the wool out, expose it to the air, and use it.

introduction:

Oxeye daisy is just one common name, the others are dog daisy, marguerite, ox-eye daisy, and a few others. But the family name is   Asteraceae with the Genus name of Leucanthemum vulgare. As the daisy is not in flower along the country roads (grows wild in the UK) or in gardens. I need to find something of the same family to take its place.  The closest that I can find is Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum, I need fresh flowers but if that is difficult to get hold of, I shall use dried flowers. I have managed to find dried flower heads from China (herbal tea) two packets are ordered. When they arrive, they do look very uninspiring.  The Safflower is very dark in colour (deep Orange), this is also dried. A mortarium and pestle (Roman replica) were used for the bruising of the two sets of flowers, 2tsp of safflower and 4 Tbsp of dried chrysanthemum flowers and ground to a rough powder.  A large clean dye vessel (maslin/jam pan) and 4l of hot tap water were added to this and the rough powder is added. This was then left for 30 minutes for the dye to start to leach out. Then the wet fibres were added and left for 4 weeks. The fibres were removed and rinsed in warm water; no soap added. Spun and allowed to air dry. The wool and silk fibres had all been mordanted with Aluminium Potassium Sulphate, while the linen and cotton had an oak gall tannin and then Aluminium Acetate mordant.

stockholm 126: Another (Recipe)

Red ochre dissolved in vinegar produces purple.

introduction:

Red ochre is a natural clay or earth containing high amounts of ferric oxide. It is classed as a non-hazardous compound, but standard safety practices can be followed.  A clean plastic container was found and 2l of white vinegar and a small amount of warm water was added to this and 3tsp of the red ochre. Gently mixed to disperse the fine powder. Added the fibres.  The wool and silk had been mordanted with Aluminium Potassium Sulphate while the linen and cotton have had an oak gall tannin then an Aluminium Acetate mordant. The fibres have been left in the dye pan for 4 weeks in a dark and cool place, during this time the dye liquor has had gentle stirring every couple of days, as the red ochre tended to settle. Mold had started on the top of the dye liquor. The fibres were removed and rinsed well with warm water, spun, and then allowed to dry.

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