An Introduction to Preparing Fibres for Natural Dyeing

Some of the first things to learn as a beginner natural dyer are:

  • as a rule, only 100% natural fibres will dye well using natural dyes;

  • there are many kinds of natural fibres, but generally they can be classified as protein (derived from the Animal Kingdom) or cellulose (derived from the Plant Kingdom) - learn about many types of natural fibres here: http://www.fao.org/natural-fibres-2009/about/15-natural-fibres/en/;

  • nearly all natural fibres contain substances that will impede the uptake of mordants and dyes - these substances can be naturally occurring, or added when the fibres are processed and milled; and

  • as a result, it is a best practice to scour fibres first, to give your mordant and dye the best opportunity to form strong bonds with your fibres.

There are countless methods for scouring and mordanting. The below are simple, effective, and energy efficient, so are great for helping you to get started in this ancient, knowledge-intensive craft.

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Protein Fibres (animal kingdom)

  • Fill a non-reactive pot (stainless steel or un-chipped enamel) with water so fibres will be covered and can move freely. Bring to below a simmer (lots of steam, no bubbles). Never let it heat beyond this, or you risk felting wool.

  • Weigh your protein fibres. For each 200 gm (1/2 pound/8 oz) of fibres, add 1 tsp of a detergent that is pH neutral, colourant and alcohol-free. Stir. Add fibres, moving very gently (to avoid felting wool) to ensure even exposure.

  • Keep at temperature for 1 hour, topping up with water as necessary.

  • Allow fibres to cool, then rinse with water of the same temperature as the fibres (again, to avoid felting wool). Proceed to mordanting, or dry until ready for use.

Cellulose Fibres (plant kingdom)

  • Fill a non-reactive pot (stainless steel or un-chipped enamel) with water so fibres will be covered and can move freely. Bring to a simmer.

  • Weigh your cellulose fibres. For each 200 gm (1/2 pound/8 oz) of fibres, add 2 tsp soda ash and 1 tsp of a detergent that is pH neutral, colourant and alcohol-free. Stir to dissolve. Add fibres, stirring to ensure all surfaces are evenly exposed.

  • Boil for 2 hours, topping up water with hot water, as necessary.

  • Allow fibres to cool, then rinse. Proceed to mordanting, or dry until ready for use.

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While some natural dyes are direct (that is, they will bond well to natural fibres without the aid of a mordant), the vast majority are mordant dyes, sometimes also referred to as adjective dyes. Properly mordanted fibres form molecular bridges between mordant, fibre and dye, creating stable colour results.

The below are the simplest mordanting methods, so are great for beginners. They do not require heating on a burner, so are also energy efficient.

Protein Fibres

Wool...

  • Fill a bucket or non-reactive pot (stainless steel or un-chipped enamel) with enough hottest tap water (or just boiled, water) so fibres will be covered and can move freely.

  • Add alum (aluminum sulfate or potassium aluminum sulfate) at 7%* weight of fibres (WOF) and cream of tartar (potassium bitartrate/potassium hydrogen tartrate) at 7% WOF (protects wool’s delicate scale structure), stir to dissolve.

  • Add fibres, stirring gently (to avoid felting wool) to ensure even exposure. Cover container to preserve heat, and leave for minimum of 2 hours (or overnight). Stir periodically to ensure even mordant uptake.

  • Remove fibres, rinse and dry. Proceed to dyeing or store out of sunlight for later use.

Silk...

  • Follow instructions for wool, but omit cream of tartar.

Cellulose Fibres

Step 1: Tannin (based on oak gall tannin, but other tannins can be used at their own WOF)...

  • Measure oak gall tannin at 10% of the weight of your fibres (WOF), and stir to dissolve in small amount of hottest tap water (or just boiled water).

  • Fill a bucket or non-reactive pot (stainless steel or un-chipped enamel) with enough hottest, or just boiled, water so fibres are covered and can move freely. Add dissolved tannin and stir.

  • Add fibres, stirring to ensure even exposure. Cover container to preserve heat, and leave for minimum of 2 hours (or overnight). Stir periodically to ensure even tannin uptake.

  • Remove fibres and rinse gently.

Step 2: Mordant...

  • Fill a bucket or non-reactive pot (stainless steel or un-chipped enamel) with enough hottest tap water (or just boiled water) that your fibres will be fully covered and can move freely. Add aluminum acetate at 8% WOF, stir to dissolve.

  • Add fibres, stirring to ensure even exposure. Cover container to preserve heat, and leave for minimum of 2 hours (or overnight). Stir periodically to ensure even mordant uptake.

  • Remove fibres, rinse and dry.